Tubeless conversion options

wookinpanub

New member
As an existing owner of a '13 S10 and (hopefully) new owner of a T700 shortly, I've been considering how to set it up for my riding. One of those considerations is the ability to quickly and easily plug a tire should a flat occur. While some don't mind removing the tire to patch / replace a tube (which is what comes stock on a T700), I prefer the ease of a plug / patch kit on a tubeless rim (as the S10s came with standard) with the tire still on the rim. As such I've been considering conversion options and have compiled the below with what I've been able to find. As I've never done this, I would be very interested if there are additional / other options and people's experiences with those options.

The other consideration is that I've seen some older threads indicating the front rim does not have a bead hump, and if so would require a different rim to be able to mount a tubeless tire?

  1. Tubeless Rims: These would be the most straightforward and lowest risk of possible air leaks, but with the few options I'm seeing this appears incredibly expensive
    1. Link: Alpina
    2. Cost: Starting at $1700+
  2. Outex: This appears to be a type of tape that goes on the inside of the rim covering the holes where the spokes are to create a air tight seal
    1. Link: Outex and Woodys Wheels
    2. Cost: $130 to $200 for both wheels
  3. Bartubeless: A polymer rubber band applied to the inside of the rim (like the Outex option) to make the rim air tight. This is *not* a DIY option, the rims have to be shipped in.
    1. Link: BARTubeless
    2. Cost: $130 per wheel *plus* shipping to Europe and back
  4. Tubliss: A small diameter, high-pressure bladder that holds the tire against the rim like a 360-degree rim lock.
    1. Link: Tubliss
    2. Cost: $100 per tire
  5. Bib Mousse: An insert that replaces the tubes and functions as a run flat.
    1. Link: Bib Mousse
    2. Cost: $160+ per tire
    3. Concern: "Runs hotter than tubes; hot enough to melt at sustained high speeds above 80mph."?
 

Venture

Administrator
Staff member
Founder
I'm thinking I'd try the other options before investing in tubeless rims for sure. Too expensive. Probably try the Outex and Bartubeless. Do all the non new wheel options still allow for a tube in an emergency?
 

wookinpanub

New member
It won't let me edit my original post, but another possible option provided I can get some 'heavies' to weigh in...

Exploring the option of replacing the rims with some that are tubeless (and not the insanely expensive Alpina option listed in my original post), I noted the KTM 790RR runs tubeless rims like our S10s do (spoked, but tubeless).

Comparing the rim dimensions shows they are darn close to each other, but are they close enough that rims from a KTM 790 would work on a Tenere 700?

  1. KTM 790RR:
    1. Rear: 21" x 2.15”
    2. Front: 18" x 4.00”
  2. Tenere 700
    1. Rear: 21" x 2.50"
    2. Front: 18" x 4.50"
 

Twinrider

New member
As an existing owner of a '13 S10 and (hopefully) new owner of a T700 shortly, I've been considering how to set it up for my riding. One of those considerations is the ability to quickly and easily plug a tire should a flat occur. While some don't mind removing the tire to patch / replace a tube (which is what comes stock on a T700), I prefer the ease of a plug / patch kit on a tubeless rim (as the S10s came with standard) with the tire still on the rim. As such I've been considering conversion options and have compiled the below with what I've been able to find. As I've never done this, I would be very interested if there are additional / other options and people's experiences with those options.

The other consideration is that I've seen some older threads indicating the front rim does not have a bead hump, and if so would require a different rim to be able to mount a tubeless tire?

  1. Tubeless Rims: These would be the most straightforward and lowest risk of possible air leaks, but with the few options I'm seeing this appears incredibly expensive
    1. Link: Alpina
    2. Cost: Starting at $1700+
  2. Outex: This appears to be a type of tape that goes on the inside of the rim covering the holes where the spokes are to create a air tight seal
    1. Link: Outex and Woodys Wheels
    2. Cost: $130 to $200 for both wheels
  3. Bartubeless: A polymer rubber band applied to the inside of the rim (like the Outex option) to make the rim air tight. This is *not* a DIY option, the rims have to be shipped in.
    1. Link: BARTubeless
    2. Cost: $130 per wheel *plus* shipping to Europe and back
  4. Tubliss: A small diameter, high-pressure bladder that holds the tire against the rim like a 360-degree rim lock.
    1. Link: Tubliss
    2. Cost: $100 per tire
  5. Bib Mousse: An insert that replaces the tubes and functions as a run flat.
    1. Link: Bib Mousse
    2. Cost: $160+ per tire
    3. Concern: "Runs hotter than tubes; hot enough to melt at sustained high speeds above 80mph."?

I ran Outex for two years on my Africa Twin with zero problems before selling the bike. The kit is inexpensive but well made, with three layers to ensure it stays air tight and the spokes can still be adjusted.

Tubliss is great for light dirt bikes (had it on my KTM 350), but it's not made for heavy adv bikes.
 

wookinpanub

New member
For those interested, I completed the Outex conversion (front and rear). Limited riding on them since the conversion, but both are holding air without issue. To that end, I thought I would pass on my experience doing that conversion.

  1. Read the instructions and pay close attention to the nuances, they can make the difference from getting it right the first time to having to redo it in the install
  2. Some do not grind down the spokes on the inside of the rim. I did. It is time consuming but the ability of the tape(s) to adhere is greatly increased once you do it. Ensure the surfaces are smooth when done
  3. If I had to do it over, I would follow what some others had done by putting some form of sealant / goop over the spokes *prior* to putting any of the tapes on. That's where I had leaks and that would have been an easy preventative measure.
  4. Be precise putting the tapes on, they need to cover as completely as possible and without minimal air bubbles. Use a rounded tire iron to work the bubbles out being careful to not damage the tapes
  5. Be careful installing / demounting the tires from the rims. The tapes can get damaged and having to demount and fix the tapes is a PITA (I had to do it twice on the front tire)
  6. Yes, the front tire can be converted as well contrary to the concerns of some. Just don't underinflate the tire significantly and the air pressure will hold it in place even though its a WM type.
  7. I had to bounce the front tire to get it to inflate (with copious amounts of RUGlyde). Alternatively a rubber donut can help with that (ensure the right diameter)
  8. Use a spray bottle with soapy water to check all spokes and valve stem after. Big leaks need immediate fixing, small leaks make seal on their own with air pressure in the tire over time. If more than 3-4 hours and still leaking it would need to be demounted and fixed as well
  9. Partially demounting the tire half way gives you access to cut away damaged sections and reapply the tapes carefully. Remount and test as above.
 

wookinpanub

New member
Trip Report: Outex conversion on Lockhart Basin (Expert only trail) and Moab area

I spent a full day on Lockhart Basin and another couple days on moderate trails. I ran 20psi on both tires and encountered a number of hard hits (especially Lockhart Basin and with the front tire). Never lost pressure, and never broke a bead. I also ran these at 30psi for a number of hours at 85mph and again no issues. My confidence in this conversion is pretty solid at this point. Only downside is to have to take care when dismounting and mounting tires now, not to nick the interior sealing tape.
 

WilliampervE

New member
I noticed that post after I replied to you

He should set a small batch run as you could use them on any hard to turn conversion or even hi po vw motor

Seb
 

paolo

New member
I run Outex in the back, never had a problem in 3000 miles, for the front I purchase a specific tubeless ready rim from Germany (excel rims), I didn’t try the new rim yet.
I ll report when I tested it.
 

NM Dan

New member
Off pavement for me is mostly forest service road & primitive mountain roads. Not too much single track. I wanted the ability to plug a puncture and go without dealing with tubes.
I went with Alpina. Not cheap but very nice quality. Recommended.
 

Landshark

Member
How many members actually have had a flat in the past 10 years? I have ridden a lot of miles and seasons and have only ever had one flat. I don't ride any serious off road so I won't go tubeless. It's way too pricey for the benefit for me.
 

NM Dan

New member
Are we the only two on this forum? 😁

I've had maybe 3 punctures in the last ten years on various bikes. All were a nail or screw. I always carry a plug kit and Co2 so was never stranded. I have not had an issue off pavement and I don't do the kind of off road that will bend a rim or do the kind of damage that will need a tube (hopefully I didn't just jinx myself) so tubeless was right for me.
 

Landshark

Member
Well hopefully we get a bunch more owners here to yak it up a bit.
I suppose if I start getting flat tires often I'll maybe think of tubeless. I have my own tire changing device so not a big deal if I get the bike home but on the road far away, tubeless would be better.
 

whisperquiet

New member
I ride 20-30,000 miles a year and have a flat every 2-3 years. The last tubed tire to go flat was on my KTM 690 rear tire almost three years ago……rode it with a flat rear tire more than 20 miles to my house as the tire was worn out anyway. I was able to ride it around 40 mph in little to no traffic in the semi rural area I live in.
My friend had a puncture on his tubeless rear Triumph Tiger tire last week…..we tried to plug it with his Stop and Go plug kit with minimal success and I eventually rode home and came back with my truck/trailer to transport the bike to my house for the last 12 miles. It is the second time friends have used the Stop and Go plugs where they were ineffective. I carry ordinary string plugs which have worked great when needed. A Nealy kit works great.
I am about to mount new Shinko 705s on my T700 and am undecided as to whether or not to seal the rear rim to make it tubeless. A friend gave me the 3M sealing tape for the job, but I will probably go with a tube. I do have 15,800 flat free miles on my T7👍
 

Landshark

Member
I ride 20-30,000 miles a year and have a flat every 2-3 years. The last tubed tire to go flat was on my KTM 690 rear tire almost three years ago……rode it with a flat rear tire more than 20 miles to my house as the tire was worn out anyway. I was able to ride it around 40 mph in little to no traffic in the semi rural area I live in.
My friend had a puncture on his tubeless rear Triumph Tiger tire last week…..we tried to plug it with his Stop and Go plug kit with minimal success and I eventually rode home and came back with my truck/trailer to transport the bike to my house for the last 12 miles. It is the second time friends have used the Stop and Go plugs where they were ineffective. I carry ordinary string plugs which have worked great when needed. A Nealy kit works great.
I am about to mount new Shinko 705s on my T700 and am undecided as to whether or not to seal the rear rim to make it tubeless. A friend gave me the 3M sealing tape for the job, but I will probably go with a tube. I do have 15,800 flat free miles on my T7👍
You certainly put a lot more miles in than I do. Maybe my time is almost up! sssssssssssssss :cry:
 

Wintersdark

New member
How many members actually have had a flat in the past 10 years? I have ridden a lot of miles and seasons and have only ever had one flat. I don't ride any serious off road so I won't go tubeless. It's way too pricey for the benefit for me.
I haven't had a flat in the past 10 years. Have to go back 20 for my last flat, and that was on an old tire (like 10+ year old tire). These days, my tires never last more than a year either, so they're always pretty fresh.

Mind you, I rarely air them down, and when I do it's not to extreme levels being a 300lb guy on a 450lb bike. I like my rims.

I've always brought tire tools (rope patch kits on the Tracer and a spare 21" tube for the Tenere) but never once needed to use either. And with Motoz tires on the T7, I'm really not enthused about needing to on the side of the road.
 

Murdoch

New member
My T7 tends to see more dirt than blacktop and a bit of that is also creeks and single track (just for giggles) For that reason, soon after purchasing I re-laced the stock wheels with excel rims, 1.85” and 2.5” so I could run twin bead locks and double tubes.

I haven’t been a fan of tubeless in the past due to bad experiences, I run the same set up on my TX enduro machine with a mousse in the back.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

whisperquiet

New member
Twin rim locks with two tubes?? How do you get all of that in the tire? I haven’t used two rim locks for forty years but rarely ran less than 15 psi offroad in rocky, tube pinching Missouri single track.
 

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