Gearing

Owen Jones

New member
Hi Folks, i have just purchased a new Tenere. I do a most of my riding on black top. Any suggestions on on gear ratios, i find it a bit to revvy at highway speeds.

Thanks
 
Hi Folks, i have just purchased a new Tenere. I do a most of my riding on black top. Any suggestions on on gear ratios, i find it a bit to revvy at highway speeds.

Thanks
Hey Owen,

Congratulations on the bike!

It is intended that way because it was not built for highway use. The seat, (lack of) windscreen, (lack of) electronics, chain angle etc etc make it a off-road bike.
But go ahead it is your bike, you can change all you want on chain and sprockets.

Have fun,
Stefan
 

Hogan

New member
Hi Folks, i have just purchased a new Tenere. I do a most of my riding on black top. Any suggestions on on gear ratios, i find it a bit to revvy at highway speeds.

Thanks
I'm running 16/43 and find it to be pretty much how a road bike with a 6 speed should operate.
But there are some problems.
First, there is a surging problem I believe related to tuning, and the altered engine conditions created by the gearing change.
Second, the weak performance of the engine at low RPM is very noticeable. The bike lags a bit below 4500rpm, before coming to life above that speed.

Most others seem to be running 16/46 without issue, so that would probably be your best bet.
I may also go 16/46 in the future to better balance performance.
 

Toppie

New member
I threw a 16 tooth on the front and have been very happy with the results.
What's your +- RPM difference in 6th at around 100 kph /60mph make with that 16 tooth on?
Anything 500 rpm + and I would consider it myself.
Thanks....
 

Toppie

New member
Hey Owen,

Congratulations on the bike!

It is intended that way because it was not built for highway use. The seat, (lack of) windscreen, (lack of) electronics, chain angle etc etc make it a off-road bike.
But go ahead it is your bike, you can change all you want on chain and sprockets.

Have fun,
Stefan
I don't necessarily agree with that.
I've bought mine for about 90% tar-top riding with an option to meander on rougher tracks.
Some might call that a waste but, after a few years using a KLR 650 then an xt660z for long distance journeys on hard topped roads, I can honestly say that, for me, I haven't found a better touring option than this style of motorcycle.
I bought the Yamaha xt660z as a 'Winter Hack' to keep dirty/salty winter miles off my nice shiny MT-09 Tracer 900 (Another fine machine)
But....after finding that the MT-09 was spending more 'n more of its life under wraps and the xt660 being used all year round, I decided to sell both to fund a brand new T7.
And after a couple of hundred kms this weekend........I'm even more convinced.
 

williestreet

New member
What's your +- RPM difference in 6th at around 100 kph /60mph make with that 16 tooth on?
Anything 500 rpm + and I would consider it myself.
Thanks....
Gearing commander is a great way to check out changes you might want to try before you buy anything.
Pick your bike t the top the page and you can test limitless changes.
Calculate chain lengths, graph all your existing gearing or the new gearing you are considering.

for your original question the rpm will drop 283 rpm at 100km/hr.

Check it out.

 

Hogan

New member
Update.
Just did a big trip, including about 2000kms of highway.
Cruising at 100 to 110kph. (Here trucks are limited to 100, and the road is 110 limited)
16/43 works perfectly. Engine feels very happy in the 4-5k range.
Still has enough balls to pass in 6th gear, but of course 5th and 4th are still there if you need them.
If the traffic slows a little to the 90-100kph range, 5th works better.
And I maintained my city mileage average at 3.8l/k100, typically stopping to fill up at the 350km mark and putting in 12-13 litres.

Also the gearing worked perfectly for the off-roading i did.

If you are wondering about compromise in off road ability just think about what gears you typically use now.
For me I was attacking almost everything in at least 2nd gear with stock gearing.
And I would also often take off in 2nd gear with stock gearing
With 16/43 first is still lower than 2nd with 15/46.
So really this new gearing is not really a compromise at all for me. In some ways it works better.
For everything else, it's just a bit more clutch work.
 

Toppie

New member
Update.
Just did a big trip, including about 2000kms of highway.
Cruising at 100 to 110kph. (Here trucks are limited to 100, and the road is 110 limited)
16/43 works perfectly. Engine feels very happy in the 4-5k range.

With 16/43 first is still lower than 2nd with 15/46.
So really this new gearing is not really a compromise at all for me. In some ways it works better.
For everything else, it's just a bit more clutch work.

Thanks for that Info.
Just ordered a 16 tooth from 'Rugged Roads' UK
(The supposedly rubber-inserted 'quiet' runner) for £12.95)
 

Landshark

Member
You may need an electric or air impact wrench with the proper size socket to remove the front sprocket. Just a heads up. I would put my KLX front wheel against the cement wall in my garage, put it in gear and then remove it.
 

Toppie

New member
You may need an electric or air impact wrench with the proper size socket to remove the front sprocket. Just a heads up. I would put my KLX front wheel against the cement wall in my garage, put it in gear and then remove it. 1647547391983.png

Thanks...I have the sprocket now.
Soon as we get over Paddy's Day we'll see how she cracks off.
 
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