Removal and Re-installation of the T7 Front Wheel.


This guide is for entertainment purposes only. If you employ it, do so at your own risk. If something goes wrong, you never heard my name. :cool:

Removal and re-installation of the front wheel.

Tools required-12 mm wrench, 10 mm wrench, 8 mm wrench, #4 hex key or Allen wrench, 19 mm hex socket wrench and a long handle. 12 mm socket and wrench. Disposable rubber surgeon gloves and some eye protection. You will not use any thread locking products. You will need some grease and therefore a few shop towels for clean up. Save the beer for after the test ride.

-Removing the front wheel.
-While the bike is still on the side stand, remove the bolts holding the brake caliper and the reflector bracket on the right side of the bike. Carefully remove the brake caliper and gently let it dangle. You may also wire it up so the line is not taunt but it’s not necessary if you only have it off for a few hours and nobody messes with it. Just be careful. Don’t press the front brake lever until everything is reassembled to prevent the brake pads from being pushed out. You’ve been warned. If you will have the wheel off for more than a few hours, I’d suggest you install a piece of wood between the brake pads on each caliper to prevent stupidity from occurring.
-Loosen both axle clamp bolts completely.
-Loosen and remove the rotor sensor bolt and cover. Remove the rotor sensor and be very careful with it. No Magnetic screwdrivers and such shall be introduced to this area or you’re going to be buying a new sensor. I like to use some black electricians tape to protect it and tape it to the fork protector out of the way. Treat it like a Robin’s egg.
-Now loosen the axle bolt using a 19 mm front spindle removal tool attached to a long handle device but don’t remove it.
-Using a lift of your choice and keeping safety in mind, lift the bike enough to get the front tire off of the ground.
Remove the axle by lifting the wheel slightly and allow the wheel to drop carefully, then gently roll it out towards you to remove the wheel. Remember, no pressing the brake lever or you’ll die.
-If the shims on both sides of the wheel haven’t fallen on the ground by now, remove them, clean them up and set aside for re-installation. Clean up both seal areas with a soft tissue while you’re at it. A clean seal is a happy seal!
-Before you reinstall the wheel, add some grease around the seal area and rub a little on the axle as well. You know it feels good. OK, that’s enough. Now reinstall the shims. Remove the wood between the brake pads if you were annul enough to use them.
-With the tire still hoisted up so the front wheel is off the ground, roll the wheel into place while “carefully” inserting the brake disc in between the brake pads on the left side brake caliper. You must make sure the wheel is square to the forks so the disc will be lined up with the pads. Be sure you have one pad on each side of the disc. Don't let the shims fall out. And you thought this would be easy. Be patient. Be gentle. No ramming and swearing.
-Lift the tire so you can insert the axle and thread it into the opposite fork. Only hand tighten at this time.
-Lower the bike to allow the front tire to rest on the ground.
-Reassemble the right side brake caliper and reflector bracket and tighten the bolts to 30 ft. lbs.
-Reassemble the rotor sensor, rotor sensor cover and bolt and tighten to 5.2 foot lbs.
-This is important. Before tightening the axle bolt or the pinch bolts, run the bike up (by hand) against a cement wall in your garage or other stable item to depress the front forks several times. I have rolled the bike forward and applied the front brakes to make the forks dive as well and it seems to work. This is to align the forks to their natural spot. I think having a friend to help with this is best for good results.
-Tighten the front axle to 53 ft. lbs.
-Insert and tighten the axle clamp bolts. Tighten the outside one and then the inside one to 15 ft. lbs. Tighten to the recommended torque without pre-tightening each one. The clamp is designed to work that way. Just do it.
-Now you can raise the front wheel enough to spin it and see if it works smoothly without some funny noise or something dragging, that sort of thing. If you find something odd, fix it. But I’ll bet you won’t if you followed these directions.
-You may measure the distance between the rotor and the rotor sensor if you think you need to. That distance should be .7 to 1.6 mm. Don’t spin the wheel with the measurement device between the sensor and the sensor rotor. It won’t work that way. Just take several measurements to be sure it’s correct.

Now you can ride off into the sunset with a big smile because you did your own repair. And you will feel more confident if you need to do a flat repair on the trail or road.

Feel free to critique this step by step instruction as I will change what’s needed if it’s not correct or not understandable. You won't hurt my feelings.