Removal and Re-installation of the T7 Rear Wheel.

Landshark

Member
This guide is for entertainment purposes only. If you decide to follow these directions and it fails miserably, you must forget where you got them from. Enjoy... Oh, if you see anything that needs correcting, let me know.

T-700 Rear Wheel Removal and Re-installation Instructions

Step by step instructions on how to remove and reinstall the rear wheel on your Tenere 700.

Removal:

Tools required will be a 22 mm socket, an 18” to 24” long handle torque wrench, a 10 mm socket and ratchet wrench, ¾” thick plywood piece, distance measuring gauge and a pair of rubber gloves. Some good quality grease and some shop towels for cleaning up as well. You’ll also need a lift of some sort to allow the rear wheel to be lifted off the ground while keeping the bike stable.

-First, don your rubber gloves to protect your hands from the petroleum products used on the drive chain and other areas. Safety glasses should also be employed. Safely lift the bike to allow the tire to the desired height of about ¾” off the ground. Slip the ¾” plywood piece under the rear tire so as to use it as a leverage tool. Place the bike in first gear to prevent the wheel from turning.

The 3/4 “ thick plywood piece should be shaped like a triangle that is long enough to go under the tire and allow one to lift up on the rear wheel.

-Now remove the rotor sensor and apply a small length of black tape loosely around the sensor and tape it out of the way. Do not use anything magnetic such as a magnetic screwdriver or pickup tool at or around the sensor as this will render the little guy useless. Handle the rotor sensor with care to keep from damaging it. Don’t try to remove the brake caliper at this time.

-Using the 22 mm socket and long handle torque wrench, loosen the rear axle nut. Remove the rear axle nut, washer and adjusting block and set aside. Lift the plywood piece slightly to get the weight off of the axle. Using a small non scarring mallet, lightly tap the axel through to allow extraction. Pull the axle out to allow the wheel to drop down. Move the wheel forward along with the brake caliper to allow the removal of the drive chain from the rear drive sprocket. Push the brake caliper towards the front of the bike as you pull the wheel out and be sure not to let the caliper fall. Reattach it to the swing arm for the moment. It just sits on the slider attached to the swing arm. The wheel is now free to allow tire replacement or other maintenance.
Warning - While the wheel is out, don’t depress the brake lever or you’ll knock the brake pads out and cause a mess.

Re-installation:

-Before re-installing the wheel, be sure to clean up the bearing outer seals and smear some grease around where they seat and on the lip of the seal where it will meet the axle. This is a fine time to clean any ugly stuff up that you don’t like with the shop towels and some citrus cleaner before the wheel is reinstalled. Make sure the spacers are clean and are in place on each side of the rim to prevent cursing. I like to apply a light coat of grease to the axle to prevent metal pitting from moisture. Don’t apply it thick as it will be squeegeed off from the tight fit into the bearings.

-To re-install the wheel, simply place it on the plywood piece and roll the tire forward to allow the drive chain to be installed onto the rear sprocket. If you have installed a new aggressive tire you may need to jack the bike up a wee bit more to allow the wheel to fit onto the plywood piece and still be able to lift it into place. Keep the brake caliper pushed forward with the brake pads open and guide gently onto the brake disc as the wheel is pushed forward to allow chain re-installation. Once the chain is installed check that the brake caliper and brake disc is seated correctly as you move the wheel back towards you and align the axle hole. Lift the wheel up with the plywood piece to align the axle hole vertically and horizontally. With the adjustment block in place on the axle’s right side, start to slide the axle through the swing arm and wheel and continue until it is fully inserted. Install the adjusting block, flat washer and axle nut to the axle and hand tighten for the moment. Be sure the adjusting block is properly seated on both sides. Push the wheel forward tightly against the chain adjusting bolts. Now, assuming you didn’t touch the chain adjusting bolts and the chain was at the desired tightness, you may tighten the axle nut to 77 ft. lbs. of torque. If your chain needs adjusting, leave the axle nut only hand tight. Lower the bike to the ground and leave it on the side stand. Now adjust the chain adjusting bolts to achieve the desired chain slack. Drive chain slack should be 43.0–48.0 mm (1.69–1.89 in) Be sure to align the chain adjusting marks located above the adjustment blocks on the swing arm and on the adjustment blocks themselves to be the same on both sides. Push the wheel forward tightly against the chain adjusting bolts, then tighten the axle nut to 77 ft. lbs. of torque. Reinstall the rotor sensor and the rotor sensor bolt and tighten to 7 N·m (0.7 kgf·m, 5.2 lb·ft)
-Check the clearance between the rotor sensor and the rotor using a blade style thickness gauge. The clearance should be between 0.8–1.6 mm (0.03–0.06 in). Measure the distance between the rear wheel sensor rotor and rear wheel sensor in several places in one rotation of the rear wheel. Do not turn the rear wheel while the thickness gauge is installed. This may damage the rear wheel sensor rotor and the rear wheel sensor.
-Lift the bike up to raise the rear tire off of the ground and spin it by hand while listening for weird sounds or scraping etc. If you detect trouble, repair it before riding the bike.

Now you know how to remove the rear wheel and will feel more confident doing so on the road or trail.
 

Toppie

New member
This guide is for entertainment purposes only. If you decide to follow these directions and it fails miserably, you must forget where you got them from. Enjoy... Oh, if you see anything that needs correcting, let me know.

T-700 Rear Wheel Removal and Re-installation Instructions

You’ll also need a lift of some sort to allow the rear wheel to be lifted off the ground while keeping the bike stable.

I made a rear wheel jack some years ago for a 650 Versys.
Only cost a few bob and worked very well.
I brought it out of retirement last year to do some work on my xt660z


Both videos posted below.
Might be useful for somebody.



Original for Versys 650
Adapted for xt660
 

Landshark

Member
I've got one that I carry with me on the bike. In the garage I use an hydraulic portable lift for convenience. That's a good tool and worth the coin.
 

Have a Great Day!

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